The beloved British staple, fish and chips, is facing a crisis as the average price of a fish supper has surged from £6.48 in 2019 to £11.17 today, according to the Office for National Statistics. This sharp rise has left many customers paying over £11 for their usual treat, putting immense financial pressure on both consumers and businesses alike.
The National Federation of Fish Friers (NFFF) reports that hundreds of fish and chip shops are currently on the market, with nearly half of their owners describing themselves as “extremely worried” about the viability of their businesses. Andrew Crook, president of the NFFF, acknowledges the challenges but emphasizes the sector’s resilience: “While the sector faces challenges, businesses continue to evolve in response to changing consumer preferences and operating conditions, all while preserving a cherished British culinary tradition.”
Danny Hennesy, a seasoned fish and chip shop broker with over thirty years’ experience, warns of a bleak outlook if support is not forthcoming. “We should be seeing growth; instead, people are just trying to hold on. Without support, more shops will close, which would be a significant loss to the high street.”
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Despite the difficulties, cod and haddock remain the cornerstone of fish and chip sales. Crook notes that 95% of sales at Skippers of Euxton in Lancashire are these two traditional fish. However, some shop owners are experimenting with alternatives. Will Watson, owner of Will’s Plaice, has introduced New Zealand hoki, which he describes as a “cross between cod and haddock.” Priced at £12 with chips, it offers a more affordable option compared to cod at £14.10 and is proving popular with customers.
“Cod and haddock still make up 75-80% of sales, but those who try hoki often reorder,” Watson says. “We have fun introducing it to those unfamiliar with hoki, even doing the hokey cokey to entertain customers.” He notes that while fish prices are high, customers worry less once they try the product: “We portioned some and sent it to the bar next door – several people came in to buy a full fillet.”
The fish and chip sector stands at a crossroads, balancing rising costs with customer loyalty and new offerings, all while fighting to keep a treasured tradition alive on Britain’s high streets.